How To Remove Rear Door Panel On 2001 Chevy Suburban

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Suburban Befouled Door Removal?

• Thread starter Big T
• Start appointment Apr 21, 2022

• #i

I found this Suburban barn door at a boneyard. Same colour equally mine, merely no rust (there are positives to living in SoCal).

My current left barn door has rust on the lower rolled edge to the point that the edge is breaking off. They desire $l for this door, only I need to remove it. I pulled two bolts from each hinge, but the hinges must be anchored by a tertiary bolt or something every bit I could not get it off. I did not bring a philips screwdriver, and then I could non remove the plastic trim to expose the inner portion of the swivel plate. Or do these remove by punching the swivel pin out?

Any how to removal advice appreciated.

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Location

Norway

• #2

I am not shure, simply i think at that place is bushings also within the hinges.

Børge

Last edited: Apr 22, 2022

• #three

open up your door, there should be a door check of somesort,, and so you accept to push the pins out,, they are a Biotch! nearly times you accept to use a torch to heat up the hinge rings,,, and apply and air chisel with a pointed bit to push thru the pivot. Most the ones I did, when doing body work for years,, ended up needing the hinges painted at the least. Some times you get lucky, past only poppin the pins out,, but not always. Adept luck.

• #iv

open up your door, there should be a door check of somesort,, then you have to button the pins out,, they are a Biotch! about times you have to utilise a torch to rut upward the swivel rings,,, and employ and air chisel with a pointed bit to push thru the pin. Nearly the ones I did, when doing body work for years,, ended up needing the hinges painted at the least. Some times you get lucky, by just poppin the pins out,, but non always. Good luck.

This is in a bone yard, so I won't be able to use an air compressor and air chisel. Sounds like I'll have to go at it with the 2 lb hammer and pointed chisel. I'll bring the map gas torch.

Tapping into your body work experience.....There is a palm sized spot on the upper right corner door where the articulate coat peeled off. Tin that be sanded out and redone? I have a couple of these clear coat peeling spots on the truck.

And no I did non vote for the Socialist Obama.

• #5

Are they concerned virtually damage you exercise to the area surrounding the hinges? If non, I would hack and whack the hinges out. Battery sawzall, metallic cutting cirular saw, torch or similar

• #6

I don't think they care, but I practice. That would make a mess of the hinge, which is pretty stout. What I don't become is why there is two bolts to the swivel and presumably the balance is spot welded?

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9,869

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Location

Castor, AB.

• #7

1/2 Acetone and 1/2 trans fluid mixed, soak it with that. If that fails I would use heat if possible. Or bigger BFH

• #8

How did ya'll make out with this project, I'm in the eye of information technology myself on my 98 Burb, every method I've tried (soaking as above) fifty-fifty with Kroil (which has never failed me before) without success including "heat & beat" torch-straight dial-BFH,

I eventually removed the doors by cutting the pivot with my Dremel, now I have a brusque slice to drill out volition grab some pics subsequently.

For replacement pins I went the expensive route http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/csd/full.aspx?Page=27 only the are the correct pin, but the quantity of bushing is incorrect 8 particular (19) bushings part 31-0758 are required, I ordered (four) more bushings today dang ship/handling was more than the toll of the bushings.

• #ix

I oasis't done the side doors, nor the barn doors. Never found the pins for the front doors. I accept a new/used clean barn door which I cut the torso side portion of the hinge using a cordless sawsall at the os 1000. Tin't get that pivot out, so I'll probably drill it out.

So was the barn door pin #18 in the link? Bushing #19? Pricing? How practice you lodge?

• #10

I haven't washed the side doors, nor the barn doors. Never plant the pins for the front doors. I have a new/used make clean barn door which I cut the body side portion of the hinge using a cordless sawsall at the bone yard. Can't become that pin out, so I'll probably drill information technology out.

So was the befouled door pin #18 in the link? Bushing #19? Pricing? How exercise you guild?

Part #s that match the page are on folio 26 http://world wide web.lmctruck.com/icatalog/csd/full.aspx?Folio=26 use the next/previous folio to advance through the catalog at top of the page you lot tin can prepare an online ordering profile or call the 800 # at superlative of the folio.

I did aforementioned thing for my donor doors and rotten doors sawed off from the truck with saws all, tomorrow weather condition permitting I'll grab some pictures and post them.

Side doors are easy pull pin past retaining prune and pin comes out

• #thirteen

Good stuff there. Then you had to utilise a cut wheel to get the centre section out? And then drilled and BFH's the residue of the pins in the door side hinge?

Also, you had to order extra bushings for each hinge?

Although I have a rear befouled door I need to install, this is completely dissimilar from the swivel pins for the forward doors.

• #xiv

Yes to the removal methods, thin cutting wheel on a Dremel tool, flex shaft would have made it easier.

We decided it would exist easier to paint without the doors on since I'm changing the color. Left my camera-camera at dwelling house and then i had to resort to the prison cell phone camera feature but I recall you get general idea of what I had to practice. Yes I had to order actress bushings LMC catalog is wrong on the quantity you need a total of 4 pins & 8 bushings.

I didn't take time to take hold of pictures during the side door removal, information technology was raining & lightning just as I finished removal barn doors are WAAAAAY harder to remove than the side doors, < xv minutes to remove the side door both pins.

Attached are the doors that were removed from the burb

Attachments

• #15

I pray I never have to do this. What lube or antisieze would you lot reccomend to make it easier next time?

• #16

The bushings come prelubed with a teflon type coating, is doubtable if you are not in the land of common salt your problems would not be as severe, my body for the frame I'm running got jacked up in Katrina storm that dropped a tree on information technology, guy I bought it from said information technology had been "Professionally repaired" yeah right, doors pass side and low on driver side frame to body clearance, my local body guy said it was likewise jacked upward to try to fix it, alive & learn on ebay trades, residual of it was a dandy runner I finally got tired of getting moisture in hard pelting and also having AC air leak out did not seal at roof to door seals.

And so I got some other rolling chasis for the body but information technology came from IL and had some road salt exposure, so I'm taking parts from 2 burbs to make 1 expert one, pins from the doors donor were not equally bad rusted, I don't think whatever lube would prevent information technology from being stuck you might endeavor some never sieze, the head of the pivot when driven home is tight fit by design into some serrations in the hinge strap so the pivot dies not motility simply rather provide itself to being a axle/shaft for the door to swing on.

• #17

the pins seem to always sieze in the eye. i take seen people put grease fittings in the hindge. and gm has a new way pin with a grease fitting in it. i just had to replace some recently the hindges are too rediesigned to preven the pin from seizing

• #19

Alright, got the door installed:

Hither's some shots of the quondam door showing the rust on the lesser:

Aside from the rust, the quondam door was cleaner and did non have peeling articulate coat. The opener hardware on the replacement door is real worn and I need a screwdriver to open up the door at the acme. It'due south as if the rods are stretched and at that place is no adjustment. So I've removed the opener hardware from the original door and that stuff is good and it'due south also a different fashion and adjustable threaded rods. I might accept to widen the opening at the acme to get the newer stuff in, equally information technology's slightly different up there. The old door had a slightly dissimilar opening that was slightly wider in one spot upward there. This is all covered by the plastic trim around the window.

The job was a bitch, but I'thousand glad I got rid of the rusty door. The other existing door does not have rust. This was the merely trunk rust on the vehicle. I bought it in Andover, Illinois a few miles southward of Moline. Dandy for a $28 replacement door, $12 plus shipping for some pins and bushings, some dremel cutting wheels and a few broken drill bits.

• #20

Thanks for taking the time to post all these pics, very helpful. Thinking of the same project myself. Saw a set of barn doors on Craigslist (mine are rusting out bad on the bottoms) and wondered how difficult to not just get mine off, just the ones from the vehicle getting scrapped as well.

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Source: https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/suburban-barn-door-removal.35155/

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